#185 Controlled Distance Is The Key To Helping Fearful Dogs

Fear-based reactivity in dogs is one of the most misunderstood challenges pet parents face. The concept of "exposure" to triggers has been tragically misinterpreted by many, leading to unnecessary stress for both dogs and their humans.

Chapters

• 0:00 Understanding Reactive Dog Exposure
• 1:08 Finding the Right Threshold Distance
• 2:40 Avoiding Stores and Confined Spaces
• 3:45 Treat Selection and Positive Reinforcement
• 4:40 Practice, Patience and Proper Planning

Transcript

Speaker 1: 0:04

Welcome to the 5-Minute Dog, the mini-podcast that delivers practical training advice in less than 5 minutes.

Speaker 1: 0:14

Let's talk about something that comes up a lot when working with reactive dogs, and that's the idea of exposure. If someone has told you to expose your reactive dog to their triggers, let's make one thing very clear that does not mean throwing them into the deep end and hoping they learn how to swim. I recently saw a video of someone walking their dog right into the middle of a crowded store, saying that their trainer told them to expose the dog to other dogs and people and that poor dog was over threshold before they even got into the building. And, sure enough, the dog reacted, barked, lunged the whole bit, and the owner was actually confused. She said I thought this was supposed to help. So let's break it down. When we talk about exposing a dog to their triggers, especially a reactive dog, what we mean is controlled exposure at a distance where your dog can still think and eat and respond to you. If you're trying to expose your dog to their triggers and they're staring and stiff and maybe panting and ignoring your treats, they're most likely too close. Instead, start way back, maybe 20, 25 foot away. Start way back, maybe 20, 25 foot away. You want to be far enough back that your dog can see his trigger but not react, and not so close that he starts barking and lunging, but also not so far away that he doesn't care. So once you get your threshold distance, watch your dog Feed treats when he notices the trigger without reacting, and then in the training session and leave before it gets out of control. A five to 10 minute session is perfect and if he does start to react during the session, get distance immediately. Start to react during the session. Get distance immediately. Don't ask him to sit. If he starts to react immediately, cue, leave it and try to put another five to ten foot of space between you and the trigger.

Speaker 1: 2:36

Now you might be tempted to take your reactive dog into a big box store because it's dog friendly, but most of the time it is the worst possible place to take a reactive dog. There's a good chance that your dog will view it as confinement and anxious dogs will react more quickly when they're confined. Also, there's no easy escape or quick way for you to put more distance between you and the trigger. If a box store is your only option, start in the parking lot and then maybe walk outside of the front of the store, help your dog work up the confidence and the control to actually enter it at some point. And dogs and people are unpredictable, and everywhere. So if you go into a big box store, always make sure you have an escape route in case another dog pops around the corner.

Speaker 1: 3:35

Reactive dogs need space to decompress, not aisles and echoing ceiling. And when you are exposing your dog to his triggers, that's not the time for dry, boring dog food. You need good treats. Think about cheese and hot dogs, lunch meat, freeze-dried liver, a fast food cheeseburger Because every good choice they make should get paid. And if your dog sees a dog and he doesn't react, jackpot. Give him three or four treats in a row Immediately. Mark and treat that moment. Right, there is gold. That's the behavior you want.

Speaker 1: 4:20

Repeated and reactive dog training isn't a one and done situation. It's about helping your dog feel safer. Over time that means short, frequent sessions when you can be proactive and not reactive and set up the situation. Don't just wait for triggers to happen. Plan your walk, your distance, your exits. Bring more treats than you'll think you'll need and then double it, but just remember exposure doesn't mean overwhelming them and keep your distance Under threshold is where learning happens, and don't go into stores or other confined spaces with a reactive dog doors or other confined spaces with a reactive dog and use really good treats and practice often and leave while it's still going well. And, maybe most important, don't rush it. Your reactive dog isn't being difficult or being mean, he's just scared and he will get over this fear and more comfortable with his triggers at his own pace.